Discovering Montréal’s Villeray district

by Martin Morin
More and more, cafés, restaurants and boutiques continue to dot this increasingly popular area just north of downtown Montreal. Here’s a guide to discovering the district. [photo credit: iStock/hdecumont]

Nestled between the Little Italy, Park Extension and Ahuntsic-Cartierville neighbourhoods of Montreal, the Villeray district is rich in history and waiting to be discovered. Dotted more and more with quaint cafés, restaurants, bars and boutiques of all kinds, it’s an excellent starting point for discovering the many facets of the city.

A great way to begin the day is at Café Larue & Fils on de Castelnau street where they say their passion for coffee is in their blood – or “...dans le sang!” Why not also enjoy one of their delicious croissants at the same time? But arrive early as the place fills up quickly!

After breakfast, since you’ll be only footsteps away, you’ll want to wander over to the famous Jarry Park stadium. It’s where the Montreal Expos baseball team played (1969-1976) until they made the Olympic Stadium their official home. No surprise that the road bordering it to the north is dedicated to one of their brightest stars, Gary “The Kid” Carter. Take a moment to relax around the fountain, or enjoy a dip in the public pool. Those of you who love to jog will be inspired rise early.

Now it’s time to head towards Villeray street to do a little shopping in a small, independent boutique called Archive. You’ll find it stocked with a selection of clothing and accessories for men and women in a décor and with an ambience that makes it worth the detour.

As far as restaurants go, when you’re ready for a bite to eat, the Villeray district is second to none. For a taste of Syrian and Armenian cuisine, The Petit Alep on Jean-Talon boulevard is where it’s happening. Their portions are generous; the service is always excellent; and their prices are unbeatable.

Of course, you can always have dessert at the restaurant, or go for a leisurely after-dinner stroll to Chocobel just ten minutes away, and sample their fine homemade chocolates and candies. While you’re there, why not sign up for an introductory workshop to the art of chocolate making.

To help keep you busy for the rest of the day and into the evening, here are two great ideas that go hand in hand: check out L’Écume des Jours on Villeray street. It’s a small, independent bookstore where you’ll receive excellent advice on the very best literature from Quebec. And what makes reading a good book even better? A good beer from Quebec! Head a little further north to Liège street until you reach Veux-tu une bière? (“Want a beer?”), a specialty boutique that stocks quality products made in Quebec. It’s definitely worth the extra few minutes it takes to find, so when you get there don’t hesitate to ask for help!