How to fix a sewage ejection pump: a quick guide

September 15, 2015

When sewage ejection pumps fail, you can quickly have an ugly mess on the basement floor. But before you call the plumber, consider this quick guide to fixing a sewage ejection pump.

How to fix a sewage ejection pump: a quick guide

Before you start

  • Before you panic and call the plumber (minimum charge $250), make sure the "float" switch works.
  • Most sewage ejector pumps and some sump pumps have a floating ball that's attached to the pump with a separate electrical cord.
  • If you see two cords coming out of the basin, you have a float switch.
  • This switch activates the pump when the water reaches a certain height.
  • The switch is plugged in with a "piggyback" plug, and the pump is plugged into the back of it so it doesn't turn on until the switch does.
  • Unfortunately, according to manufacturers, these switches may only last half as long as the pump.
  • Thankfully, universal replacement switches are available at home centres and plumbing suppliers for $20, and replacing the switch is simple.

Sewage ejection pump facts

  • When the water level rises, the floating switch turns on the pump, which grinds waste and ejects it up the waste line.
  • The check valve stops wastewater from flowing back into the basin.
  • The shutoff stops back-flow when the pump is serviced.
  • If you have any issues, head down to your local hardware store or check online for more tips.

Testing your switch and pump

  • Before you replace the switch, check the circuit breaker and GFCI outlet.
  • If they're okay, unplug the pump from the back of the piggyback plug and plug it in directly.
  • If the pump starts up, the switch is bad.
  • If it doesn't turn on, the pump is bad, but replacing it ($300, including the switch) is just as easy as replacing the switch.

Installing the new pump

  • Lift out the old pump and put a new one in.
  • If the pump works, run water for a minute to flush out the dirty water — but don't let the water level go below the pump or you'll burn out the pump.
  • Then remove the basin top.
  • Pull the vent pipe from the top and loosen the coupling or union that joins the waste line together (wrap a towel around the pipe to catch any water).
  • Lift out the new pump and mark the point where the cord that holds the switch is attached to the pump.
  • Attach the new switch at the same point so it will turn on and off at the same water level.
  • Also check to be sure there's an air bleed hole near the bottom of the waste pipe.
  • Not having an air bleed hole is another potential cause of pump failure.
  • If you don't see one, drill a 1/6 centimetre (1/16 inch) diameter hole into the waste pipe about 5 centimetres (2 inches) from where it enters the pump.
  • Put the pump back in the basin and reassemble the plumbing.
  • Make sure the float switch moves freely and doesn't get wedged against the sides.
  • Seal around the edge of the basin with silicone caulk if the original gasket or seal is deteriorated.

Keep this quick guide in mind to make fixing a sewage ejection pump that much easier.

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